Red Bread [Los Angeles]
The first day that I walked into Red Bread was the day that the LA Times ran a photo of the newly-opened brick-and-mortar Culver City store/restaurant on the front page of the Saturday Section, along with an article praising its rye. Not being a subscriber, I did not know this, and all of the bread had been sold out by the time I stumbled in at 2pm.
The next weekend, not being what you call an early bird, I again went in during the afternoon, but there was no loaves of sourdough to be had. No matter, a loaf of Russian black bread was tucked under my arm, and I filled my belly with the best quiche I’d had since Soul Kitchen.
Since then, I’ve had the good fortune to munch on their excellent biscuit sandwiches and, yes, finally, take home loaves of their spontaneously fermented classic boule.
Since the days of Jean-Bapyeast (and possibly even before then, during my homebrewing days), I’ve been fascinated with what a bit of yeast and bacteria can do to a big batch of carbs. And while I can’t say that the dense loaves that this bakery produces are my favorite in the world (those would be the country loaf at Tartine in the US and the pain de traverse at the boulangerie on my block in the Marais in Paris), they are certainly raising the bar for bread on the West Side. Gone are the days when I would have to drive all the way to Santa Monica for bread that doesn’t taste stripped of its origins. Hallelujah.
13322 W Washington Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90066