October 12, 2012
Why yes, I’m still obsessed with duck fat. Why do you ask?
These potatoes are the most perfect breakfast potatoes I’ve ever encountered. The secret is in boiling the potatoes beforehand — if you don’t, the insides of the potatoes dry out while you’re trying to brown them in the skillet. This way, the potatoes are creamy all the way through, and the outer layers absorb the delicious duck fat more readily.
I like to serve them with the other items that make up my ideal breakfast experience: soft-scrambled eggs, a bit of toast, good salted butter, jam, and several pieces of bacon. But I’ve also served them with braised dishes and stews like short ribs and boeuf bourguignon, and they’re delicious outside the breakfast sphere too.
September 14, 2012
“Garlic is divine. Few food items can taste so many distinct ways, handled correctly. Misuse of garlic is a crime. Old garlic, burnt garlic, garlic cut too long ago and garlic that has been tragically smashed through one of those abominations, the garlic press, are all disgusting. Please treat your garlic with respect. Sliver it for pasta, like you saw in Goodfellas; don’t burn it. Smash it, with the flat of your knife blade if you like, but don’t put it through a press. I don’t know what that junk is that squeezes out the end of those things, but it ain’t garlic. And try roasting garlic. It gets mellower and sweeter if you roast it whole, still on the clove, to be squeezed out later when it’s soft and brown. Nothing will permeate your food more irrevocably and irreparably than burnt or rancid garlic. Avoid at all costs that vile spew you see rotting in oil in screw-top jars. Too lazy to peel fresh? You don’t deserve to eat garlic.”
— Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly
Mr. Bourdain has said it perfectly. Garlic is one of those transcendent ingredients that will permeate a dish with its heady flavor and aroma from just a small clove, it’s in nearly everything worth eating, and it should be treated with respect.
August 14, 2012
Spinach, kale, chard, collards, beet greens, etc. etc. etc. We’re supposed to eat lots of them. They’re called “cooking greens” to differentiate them from the tender greens that are more commonly eaten raw.
Greens are not my forte. Carbs and protein are my jams. But hey, hardy leaf matter is necessary for a hardy body, so we’d better make it taste awesome and — this is the important part — more likely to get into all of our meals. That’s where these garlicky greens come in.