July 6, 2013
This post is difficult to write. I’ve been putting it off for a long time, mostly because I’m in denial about leaving Paris in the first place.
Yes, I’m leaving. I’m going back to LA because… well, various reasons. My long-stay visa is up, my job wants me back, I have an apartment waiting for me, etc. etc. etc.
Right now it all feels like meaningless excuses. It’s so hard to leave, especially in summer with the long days and blue skies and flowers and the strawberries and cherries and tomatoes at the markets. It doesn’t help that I’ve been staying at the most charming AirBnb apartment I could ever imagine, a tiny chambre de bonne with an Eiffel Tower view. I am truly tempted to say, “screw responsibility, screw being an adult, I’m going to live the broke bohemian life here.”
But that’s not me. I’ve always been the safe one, who makes sure that the edges are all straight and aligned before sewing them together. And let’s face it, I couldn’t go to nearly as many good restaurants if I was living the boho life.
June 11, 2013
There are places I walk into and instantly know I’ll be a regular. Soul Kitchen was one of those places.
I first headed to this little behind-the-butte café due to a recommendation from Jackie and I can’t thank her enough. I’m here at least a couple of days a week now, leeching off their wifi and churning out some work while the restaurant bustles around me. I’m sitting in my usual corner seat as I type this, actually, listening to their awesome soundtrack which today includes Alt-J, Rufus Wainwright, Woodkid, and Regina Spektor.
Charming without being cutesy, hip without being pretentious, Soul Kitchen is run by the Anzel sisters, the sweetest restaurateurs you’ll ever meet. They serve simple, homemade food that’s often vegetarian, using fresh, seasonal ingredients. I realized last week that I had accidentally been eating vegetarian for three days because of this restaurant — and if you’ve been to Paris, you know what a feat this is.
April 30, 2013
… are spent au bar.
Beyond the well-traversed cobblestone streets behind Sacre Coeur that throng with tourists all day and night, there are still corner bars entirely peopled with locals. That “real Montmartre” you’ve been hearing about. You’ll probably have to walk through some sketchy-ass metro stops and streets to get there, though.
April 20, 2013
It’s been a glorious week. Not only has the sun finally decided to come out, one of my favorite people in Paris has been on vacation all week and we’ve gotten to spend long lazy days exploring the museums and doing silly touristy things.
Montmartre, terrace, apéros that turn into dinner… and the first pichet of rosé. Watching the buildings gleam gold from the setting sun, then watching the blue hour come on. Simple pleasures.